One Macro technique.

Trent Watts

Well-Known Member
A couple of Focal World participants asked if I would share my Macro techniques. By no means am I an expert on this subject so would welcome other macro photographers to weigh in with other gear and suggestions.

This is the equipment and technique that I use for most of my macro work. It works for me and is obviously only one of many setups that can do excellent macro work. The OM-1 and the 90 mm. macro from OM Systems is a micro 4-3rds. system. The 90 mm. can go up to 2X and focuses to 0.224m (8.8 in.) from the sensor or about 2" from the front of the lens. It is compatible with the 1.4x and 2.0x converters but that creates such large magnification I don't find it useful in the field with moving insects and wind. OM Systems also has one of the best image stabilization systems both in camera and in the lens so much of my work is hand held. This gives much more flexibility in chasing moving subjects.
The real game changer for me was to add a flash and a diffuser to get stop motion, high f-stop and low ISO. I chose the Cygnustech diffuser made by Brendan James in Australia. It folds flat for travel, and assembles easily. You tell Brendan what camera and lens you use and he makes a diffuser for that setup.
Along with all the tech I still need to be very patient waiting for the right composition, finding a cooperative subject, and being prepared for a low hit rate on useable images.
Post processing includes Lightroom and Topas Sharpen AI.

Camera, lens, flash and diffuser
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An example image. This bug (an Aphid according to BugGuide) was cooperatively sitting on a Daylilly flower and allowed me to approach quite close. I will take images constantly as I move closer to the bug as I never know how close I can get before it flies or crawls away. This is unprocessed from the camera.
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After cropping and Topas Sharpen Ai and selective changes with LR.
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Another example with a Harvestman spider. I like the black background that is possible with f18 and the flash.
This is out of the camera.
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This image is after LR and Topas Sharpen AI. Not a lot of difference but some improvement in details.
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Michael13

Well-Known Member
Trent, thanks for posting this! Very enlightening to me as an occasional macro shooter . I have a few questions if you don't mind ...

1. To get the black backgrounds are you using an exceptionally fast shutter speed?
2. Are you using aperture priority to expose? Does your flash expose auto or set manually?
3. Do you preset your focus to 1:1, 2x or use autofocus?

Again, thanks for this post! I am looking at a 2x macro lens to round out my mirrorless kit and this has been very helpful !
 

Trent Watts

Well-Known Member
Trent, thanks for posting this! Very enlightening to me as an occasional macro shooter . I have a few questions if you don't mind ...

1. To get the black backgrounds are you using an exceptionally fast shutter speed?
2. Are you using aperture priority to expose? Does your flash expose auto or set manually?
3. Do you preset your focus to 1:1, 2x or use autofocus?

Again, thanks for this post! I am looking at a 2x macro lens to round out my mirrorless kit and this has been very helpful !
Thanks Michael.
1. Yes I am pretty much always at f16 and often up to f22. I know people say you don't get the sharpest image at high f stops but my old eyes don't notice that and Topas Sharpen AI seems to clean up any problems and I'm often seeking more of the subject in focus.
2. I do use A priority and the flash is set to TTL auto exposure. The exception is when shooting focus stacking the flash is automatically set to manual.
3. I use a combination of autofocus and manual. The 90mm OM lens is quite good at autofocus but with a moving subject such as an insect I want to focus on the eyes so it can be easier to use manual focus with peaking at close distances. This lens has a focus clutch so you can switch back and forth easily by pulling the focus ring at the front of the lens. With the high magnification of 2x I often use manual mode focus, turn the focus to minimum and seek focus by moving back and forth.

Hope this helps. I'm sure you would enjoy this lens. It is superbly made, splash poof and quite light in weight and really sharp.
 

Michael13

Well-Known Member
So I guess your shutter speed will vary from shot to shot with TTL? Maybe it automatically sets to your maximum synch speed. Anyway I'm sure the faster shutter combined with smaller aperture both contribute to the darker background achieved. For me, I am looking at getting a total manual macro lens - no autofocus or TTL. I already have a suitable flash I can set manually, but I am impressed with the diffuser you have chosen and I've spent the last hour watching YouTube videos of it. Thanks again Trent!
 

Joe Colozzo

Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing that Info Trent. I've seen that reflector before and it seems to give top not results, but the skill is in the user. ;)
 
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