Cypress and Spanish Moss

Panther

Panther

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

One from Caddo Lake, this was just a straight up shot , I've always loved
the Spanish Moss, swaying in the Breeze then at Night Looking Like Ghostly
Arms moving !!!


DSC_0573www.jpg


Nikon D70S, Modded to 720nm, ISO 400, 1/320, F/7.1

Thanks for Looking, Take Care,

Craig
 
JimFox

JimFox

Moderator
Staff member
I like this view Craig. Looking up is cool, and the contrast between sky and the moss is sweet.
 
AlanLichty

AlanLichty

Moderator
I love the contrasts in this shot. How do you decide on the fly which camera body/IR wavelengths to yank out when you see a scene?
 
Panther

Panther

Well-Known Member
JimFox said:
I like this view Craig. Looking up is cool, and the contrast between sky and the moss is sweet.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim, I was very pleased when I saw the image come on the screen with that Sky Color,
it's always kind of like magic after running the Channel Swap Action what will pop up.

Take Care,

Craig
 
Panther

Panther

Well-Known Member
AlanLichty said:
I love the contrasts in this shot. How do you decide on the fly which camera body/IR wavelengths to yank out when you see a scene?
Click to expand...
Hi Alan, Thanks very much. At that time I was using my Nikon D70S with the 720nm Wavelength Filter (Blue Skies / White Foliage is the Normal Image rendered), the camera was Modded
so it's only IR. This makes it where it shoots just like a normal Visible Color Cameras as far as normal ISO, F/Stop, and most importantly
normal Shutter Speed. To shoot IR with an unmodded camera with a Screw on or Lee IR Filter moves the scale to 2-4 secs which
brings in wind movement in the Foliage and any movement in the scene, also requires more all times shooting with a Tripod.

I've had two other cameras modded by Kolari Vision (actually bought the camera from them as they buy from B&H and charge
the same exact amount)

I had an Olympus E-PL6 modded to Dual Spectrum, which let's in IR and Visible Light. With that one you used screw on Filters
since the Modd was done to the Hot Mirror Filter which was removed and the dual spectrum put on. So with this you could shoot
any of the IR Wavelength Filters, and also use a Hot Mirror Filter and shoot Visible Color again, with just a slight WB adjustment
you'd never know it wasn't a normal Color Camera.

The Camera I have now is a Modded Sony a6300 with the 590nm filter replacing the Hot Mirror filter over the sensor.
so it's full time dedicated 590nm Wavelength (Golden Foliage / Blue Skies) after post processing .

Sorry to be so wordy just wanted to let you know the options out there. There's also a Full Spectrum Modd and it doesn't
block any of the lightwaves, IR , UV, Visible a lot of Astro Shooters use this Modd .

The only drawback on the DS or FS is that you have to buy the filter for the lenses you use most often but also you can
change wavelengths instead of a dedicated one Wavelength

Take Care,

Craig
 
AlanLichty

AlanLichty

Moderator
Panther said:
Hi Alan, Thanks very much. At that time I was using my Nikon D70S with the 720nm Wavelength Filter (Blue Skies / White Foliage is the Normal Image rendered), the camera was Modded
so it's only IR. This makes it where it shoots just like a normal Visible Color Cameras as far as normal ISO, F/Stop, and most importantly
normal Shutter Speed. To shoot IR with an unmodded camera with a Screw on or Lee IR Filter moves the scale to 2-4 secs which
brings in wind movement in the Foliage and any movement in the scene, also requires more all times shooting with a Tripod.

I've had two other cameras modded by Kolari Vision (actually bought the camera from them as they buy from B&H and charge
the same exact amount)

I had an Olympus E-PL6 modded to Dual Spectrum, which let's in IR and Visible Light. With that one you used screw on Filters
since the Modd was done to the Hot Mirror Filter which was removed and the dual spectrum put on. So with this you could shoot
any of the IR Wavelength Filters, and also use a Hot Mirror Filter and shoot Visible Color again, with just a slight WB adjustment
you'd never know it wasn't a normal Color Camera.

The Camera I have now is a Modded Sony a6300 with the 590nm filter replacing the Hot Mirror filter over the sensor.
so it's full time dedicated 590nm Wavelength (Golden Foliage / Blue Skies) after post processing .

Sorry to be so wordy just wanted to let you know the options out there. There's also a Full Spectrum Modd and it doesn't
block any of the lightwaves, IR , UV, Visible a lot of Astro Shooters use this Modd .

The only drawback on the DS or FS is that you have to buy the filter for the lenses you use most often but also you can
change wavelengths instead of a dedicated one Wavelength

Take Care,

Craig
Click to expand...
I am looking at the DS conversion (can't see a need for UV) and would probably carry filters for 590nm and 720nm since I have several lenses with 77mm threads. My question is what would make you inclined to pick one of those wavelengths over the other as you are eyeballing your subject or would you just shoot both and make call in post processing?
 
Amy Nelson

Amy Nelson

Well-Known Member
Panther said:
Hi Alan, Thanks very much. At that time I was using my Nikon D70S with the 720nm Wavelength Filter (Blue Skies / White Foliage is the Normal Image rendered), the camera was Modded
so it's only IR. This makes it where it shoots just like a normal Visible Color Cameras as far as normal ISO, F/Stop, and most importantly
normal Shutter Speed. To shoot IR with an unmodded camera with a Screw on or Lee IR Filter moves the scale to 2-4 secs which
brings in wind movement in the Foliage and any movement in the scene, also requires more all times shooting with a Tripod.

I've had two other cameras modded by Kolari Vision (actually bought the camera from them as they buy from B&H and charge
the same exact amount)

I had an Olympus E-PL6 modded to Dual Spectrum, which let's in IR and Visible Light. With that one you used screw on Filters
since the Modd was done to the Hot Mirror Filter which was removed and the dual spectrum put on. So with this you could shoot
any of the IR Wavelength Filters, and also use a Hot Mirror Filter and shoot Visible Color again, with just a slight WB adjustment
you'd never know it wasn't a normal Color Camera.

The Camera I have now is a Modded Sony a6300 with the 590nm filter replacing the Hot Mirror filter over the sensor.
so it's full time dedicated 590nm Wavelength (Golden Foliage / Blue Skies) after post processing .

Sorry to be so wordy just wanted to let you know the options out there. There's also a Full Spectrum Modd and it doesn't
block any of the lightwaves, IR , UV, Visible a lot of Astro Shooters use this Modd .

The only drawback on the DS or FS is that you have to buy the filter for the lenses you use most often but also you can
change wavelengths instead of a dedicated one Wavelength

Take Care,

Craig
Click to expand...
Very interesting information, good to know. Love this shot, very graceful.
 
Panther

Panther

Well-Known Member
AlanLichty said:
I am looking at the DS conversion (can'r see a need for UV) and would probably carry filters for 590nm and 720nm since I have several lenses with 77mm threads. My question is what would make you inclined to pick one of those wavelengths over the other as you are eyeballing your subject or would you just shoot both and make call in post processing?
Click to expand...

Hi Alan,

Had to laugh I thought I'd saw D5 instead of DS <G> !!!

Well, as all things are it's a matter of taste and like. With the 720nm you'll get Blue Skies/ White Foliage, and with the 590nm
You'll get Golden Foliage/ Blue Skies, having said that you can post process to get the Blue Skies / White Foliage with the 590nm but
harder to work the 720nm to Golden Foliage, not impossible just a lot of post processing work. I have to say I love them both, and then
throw in B&W (850nm) and there's another for you but you can get Black and White just like processing a Color image to it. Some say that
you get deeper contrasting tones and range of exposure, but I'm not that sharp on those things.

I'll post a pic that has been shot in the 590nm Wave Length then Post Processed to look like 720nm I'll also attach a link to show you the
Different Filters and their looks.

https://kolarivision.com/articles/choosing-a-filter/ Also, there's a host of new filters wavelength , starting at 470nm, 550nm, 590nm, 665nm, 720nm, 850nm

P5060523w.jpg

590nm


P5060522ww.jpg

720nm

These were from a Dual Spectrum Olympus E-PL6 with 590nm Kolari Vision Screw on Filter

Hope this might give a better explanation.

Also, I would highly recommend getting the A/R (anti reflective) coating to help reduce the dreaded Hot Spot as there's
certain lenses that prone/ highly prone to hot spotting. https://kolarivision.com/articles/lens-hotspot-list/

Please just let me know if you need more info, Take care,

Craig
 
AlanLichty

AlanLichty

Moderator
Panther said:
Hi Alan,

Had to laugh I thought I'd saw D5 instead of DS <G> !!!

Well, as all things are it's a matter of taste and like. With the 720nm you'll get Blue Skies/ White Foliage, and with the 590nm
You'll get Golden Foliage/ Blue Skies, having said that you can post process to get the Blue Skies / White Foliage with the 590nm but
harder to work the 720nm to Golden Foliage, not impossible just a lot of post processing work. I have to say I love them both, and then
throw in B&W (850nm) and there's another for you but you can get Black and White just like processing a Color image to it. Some say that
you get deeper contrasting tones and range of exposure, but I'm not that sharp on those things.

I'll post a pic that has been shot in the 590nm Wave Length then Post Processed to look like 720nm I'll also attach a link to show you the
Different Filters and their looks.

https://kolarivision.com/articles/choosing-a-filter/ Also, there's a host of new filters wavelength , starting at 470nm, 550nm, 590nm, 665nm, 720nm, 850nm

These were from a Dual Spectrum Olympus E-PL6 with 590nm Kolari Vision Screw on Filter

Hope this might give a better explanation.

Also, I would highly recommend getting the A/R (anti reflective) coating to help reduce the dreaded Hot Spot as there's
certain lenses that prone/ highly prone to hot spotting. https://kolarivision.com/articles/lens-hotspot-list/

Please just let me know if you need more info, Take care,

Craig
Click to expand...
Thanks - that does help. The lenses I will use are on the good list on the kolarvision web site so I don't think I need the A/R coating. I have been going though all of the info on their web site and will probably take the leap right after I get done with fall leaf color madness.
 
Panther

Panther

Well-Known Member
AlanLichty said:
Thanks - that does help. The lenses I will use are on the good list on the kolarvision web site so I don't think I need the A/R coating. I have been going though all of the info on their web site and will probably take the leap right after I get done with fall leaf color madness.
Click to expand...
Thanks Great Alan, Glad I didn't muddy the water too much !!!

I would however, Highly Recommend the A/R coating for 75 dollars it's almost like insurance even
for lenses that "are on the good list" , but it's each person's choice, I try to give myself all the advantages
that I can since unfortunately someplaces I'll never make it back to .

Take Care,

Craig
 
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